The interior lights, I used the BA9s in each of the two map light bulb locations. You can see that the incandescent bulb sits parallel to the lens, but the LED bulbs still works. Worst case, I use the center light; its plenty bright.
LED Project - January 2006
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First, ‘Thanks’ to dwm. His old threads
provided me with 99% of the info I needed.
What this project entailed:
Interior:
2 map light bulbs; ‘BA9’ type;
BA9s-W4 White LED bulb; $3/ea.
1 center console bulb; ‘festoon’ type;
39mm 9 LED Super White;
$7/ea
2 hatch area bulbs; ‘festoon’ type;
39mm 9 LED Super White;
$7/ea
Frontal Cabin Light Console
The interior lights, I used the BA9s in each of the two map light bulb
locations. You can see that the incandescent bulb sits parallel to the lens, but
the LED bulbs still works. Worst case, I use the center light; its plenty
bright.
| The center console bulb location is where the first festoon bulb goes. | The remaining 2 festoon bulbs go in the hatch area. |
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Rear End:
I didn’t choose to go the blinker route since there isn’t a normal-blink
solution yet.
| You'll need 2 1156-R19
'Narrow' 1 in each housing $7/ea |
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| You'll need 2 1156-R24
'Narrow' 1 in each housing $7/ea
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| You'll need 2 T13 1 in each housing $2/ea. |
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The #5 position requires you to Dremel a millimeter or two to enlarge the hole for the LED bulb to fit, but nothing drastic. |
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I replaced #3, #4, and #5
#3 is the 1156-R19 'Narrow'
#4 is the 1156-R24 'Narrow'
#5 is the T13 |
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Running light pictures
Video ~28mb Please Right Click Save Link As
If you run into a situation where a LED will not fire, even though you know the LED and the taillight housing, and the bulb holder are getting power, the polarity of the taillight housing could be reversed. This drove me loopy for a weekend until I was pointed in the right direction by my cohorts on bf.c. Observe:
My positive and negative leads were reversed on my housing - so I swapped their positions. No cutting, splicing, or cursing involved.
The contacts can be gently unbent, pulled upwards from their plastic holders, relocated [yes, there was enough slack in the wires - there should be since it was supposed to be this way to begin with!], and rebent in their correct position.
| 1 - unbend and remove pos. / red contact and wire | 2 - both contact and wires removed | 3 - neg. / black correctly replaced | 4 - pos. / red correctly replaced | Done! |
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